The perfect family weekend at Old Mill on the Spey, Boat of Garten

If I was granted a wish to recreate only one part of our weekend at Old Mill on the Spey, it would be the arrival. From the moment you pass under the old stone bridge, across which chuffs the occasional steam train, you’re in dreamland. We had the good fortune of arriving in the dark, which meant we enjoyed the full effect of the fairy lights illuminating what was to come: the sauna, the hot tub, the path down to the River Spey, and the unique stone building itself, with its handmade doors and original water mill feature.

What struck me most was the uniqueness of this lodge. Almost everything, from the door catches to the beds, is handcrafted from solid wood, and many of the beds are tucked into ski lodge-inspired alcoves. In the massive master suite, the original mill workings vie for attention with the wilderness view supplied by the picture window.

I spent the weekend at Old Mill on the Spey with my husband and our six-year-old son, Brodie, and seeing the house through a child’s eyes was a gift. It’s a hide-and-seeker’s dream, with little nooks at every turn. And while there’s a feeling of solidity and history here (“Is this the dungeon?” Brodie enquired about the downstairs cupboard doors), you’re never far from a reminder of modern comfort, thanks to luxury bathrooms, a spa bath, and a 42” TV in the lounge, which is mounted opposite squishy leather sofas covered in the snuggliest of blankets.

Back to our arrival, though. We hopped straight into the hot tub, unable to resist, and would return here time and time again throughout the weekend. For fans of cold water therapy, it’s not far to scurry down to the River Spey for an invigorating dip before you return to the hot tub or sauna to warm up.

While the Old Mill is set on its own and has that sense of peacefulness that comes from having no neighbours, you’re also very close to Boat of Garten. We walked along a quiet path through woodland to the excellent village shop to restock, taking Brodie’s bike so he could do a few laps on the newly built pump track in the Boat of Garten woods. With a pit stop at the pub, and some early spring sunshine, it was an idyllic way to spend the afternoon.

To be completely honest, we spent much of our time at Old Mill on the Spey doing, well…not very much at all. We would wander through the garden, coffee in hand, and watch the river flowing past. We would sit around the breakfast bar in the kitchen, eating too much food and discussing what it would be like to live here (answer: amazing). We would watch TV as a family on the comfy sofa, play a board game, and then head out, yet again, to the hot tub. This is the kind of place that invites you to just be, and I can’t think of many places I’d rather do that.

A caveat to this: perhaps one of the reasons we were so happy to enjoy the special surroundings of the Old Mill was that we already live locally. If you are looking for a more active weekend, there’s a huge amount of choice around Boat of Garten.

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  Spacious kitchen and living room area

  I highly recommend Landmark Forest Adventure Park for three-year-olds and up. Set aside a whole day (particularly during the summer months when more attractions are open) to make the most of the ticket cost.

• You could board the steam train in Boat of Garten and see Old Mill on the Spey from a different angle as you cross the bridge right beside it on your way to the end of the line.
• The multi-use path from Boat of Garten to Aviemore is brilliant for a family walk or bike ride, offering mountain views for the grown-ups and a cafe at the end as a bribe for the kids. Maybe your kids don’t need bribes to go on bike rides, in which case I salute you.
• For more ideas, check out the Highland Hideouts guide to visiting in different seasons and our restaurant recommendations (which includes a family-friendly section). The Visit Cairngorms website is also a brilliant resource.

When I explained to Brodie that I’d be writing about our weekend at Old Mill in the Spey, he was keen to make a contribution. This is his (dictated) six-year-old perspective on the best bits.

Brodie’s Review

“The hot tub was a very good place because I could practise my swimming. I liked how my bed had a TV in it and I also liked how one bed was upstairs on a platform with a window, and one was downstairs and had curtains. The Little Man Cave was cosy and warm. I liked the walk to Boat of Garten. We went to the pub, it was fun and I got something to eat.”

 

Jayne Clark is a copywriter who lives in the Cairngorms National Park.